Flavor 1: Ryeso
A malty masterpiece: Ryeso
Between the noma Test Kitchen and Fermentation Lab, our team has fermented just about everything under the sun. For Taste Buds Flavor Box #1, we asked them to break down a product that’s about as Noma as it gets: Ryeso.
Many years ago, we were searching for a local analogue to the soybean—something uniquely Nordic from which we could make our own miso. We asked: If koji can break down the starches in legumes like soybeans, then why not use it to break down the starches found in grains sourced locally? The result is ryeso, a miso made with the most Danish of baked goods.
We work with Hart bakery, just steps from noma, using their leftover rye bread loaves that would otherwise go to waste. For this particular batch, we've used a combination of leftover and specially baked bread to ensure consistency. The process mirrors how we make peaso, another miso analogue made using yellow split peas. First, we blend rye bread with rice koji and salt, pack it into barrels, and let it age for a minimum of three months. The enzymatic breakdown transforms that bread into something entirely new.
When I describe ryeso to home cooks, I tell them it's a deeper, darker, and more savory version of red miso. For chefs, I add that it carries a nuttier flavor profile with meatier tones that bring real complexity to your cooking.
In the restaurant, we've made a ryeso tamari using ice clarification—a rich, savory glaze that's tremendous with grilled applications. At home, I've used it in desserts, adding it to banana bread to create a savory quality.
By using rye bread that is made just doors from where the restaurant is located and making it into a product that is a staple in the restaurant, we're staying true to the “time and place” approach of noma. In essence, it is a product that can only be made here.